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Traditional Practices to make Gamosa – গামোচা তৈয়াৰ কৰাৰ পৰম্পৰাগত প্ৰথা

Traditional practices to make Gamusa:

Historically, nations loom is getting used to provide (weave) Gamusa. Varied instruments made from bamboo have been used as loom parts to weave Gamusa. The loom is mounted on 4 bamboo sticks. The principle part of the loom consists of warp beam and fabric beam.

 In Assamese language these two beams are often called ‘Tolotha’. Warp beam is used to hold lengthwise yarn ie. warp yarn and the material beam is used to wind the finished material after weaving. The beams have been made of excellent high quality matured wood. The beams ought to be very clean in order that it doesn’t hamper winding cotton yarns that are used to weave Gamusa.

Subsequent to beam, the essential half is reed or rass. Reed is a form of comb made from bamboo. Lengthwise yarns are passed through the reed. The size of reed ranges from 49 – 60 and width is 3”. The reed rests in a sleigh field. After passing the weft yarn by way of V shaped sheds of lengthwise yarn, battening the weft yarn to the physique of cloth is completed by reed.

The following essential accent is ‘Shuttle (maku). The time period shuttle (maku) got here from Sanskrit phrase “moku” which means to journey’ or ‘in journey. The weft yarn and the yarns for designs are winded in a small bobbin referred to as ‘prim’ (mohura) which is used contained in the Shuttle with the assistance of a stick after which it is handed by way of sheds of lengthwise yarns.

Shuttle is made from Bamboo, size is 17 and half ” and width is 1 and half %”.‘Lease rod(siri) is a flat lengthy stick constituted of ‘Bamboo’ (selection: Jatibaah) of size 60” – 70′ and width 1 ” to 2″. One side of ‘lease rod’ is barely pointed and one the other one is flat. That is used ranging from warping of Gamusa until design development. The scale of ‘lease rod depends upon its use Borsiri, Majusiri, sorusiri, phuisiri.

Healds are made by sturdy cotton/polyester yarn with the assistance of a “Bamboo Tube (sunga) made from bamboo. Bamboo Tube’ is constituted of ‘Mokal Banh'(mokal baah) and“ Jati Baah’. The circumference of ‘Bamboo Tube” is 9″ and size 70″. The size depends upon the use. The floor of ‘Bamboo Tube” ought to be very clean whereas making healds, bamboo sticks in higher lenght and decrease a part of heald are used, referred to as ‘soli’. Heald yarn are interlaced with ‘Bamboo Tube’and “Soli’.

Treadle (goroka) is one other essential  part of the loom Goroka is constituted of lengthy bamboo and the circumference is much less. Wood ‘Goroka’ is utilized in fly shuttle loom. Typically two items of ‘Goroka’ are tied to the heald by assist of ropes to provide shed within the warp threads.“Putal is utilized in each of the selvedges of cloth that are already weaved to stop from narrowing it while weaving.

‘Sali mari’ is used in the place reed association of the loom, alongwith heald it is tied. Sali Mari is made from bamboo in case of nation loom.

Earlier than weaving the lengthwise yarn, ‘soli’ is tied first to the ‘fabric beam’ by the assistance of ropes which is called Dooa Bandha Jari’.

 

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