Brief History of Assam Silk – Muga, Pat & Eri Silk

Origin and Historical past

As per information, the cultivation and weaving of Muga Silk have been there for a really very long time between 1228-1828 in the course of the reign of the Ahom rulers. The Ahom rulers patronized the expansion of Muga Silk as a trade. They’d decreed that every one of the upper officers of the dominion had been to adorn solely garments constructed from Muga Silk. Lots of the looms of Muga Silk had been beneath the royal supervision and had been generally known as Rajaghoria looms. One of the many three wild silks from Assam. Generally known as Assam silk, Muga, Eri and Pat are three kinds of silk produced solely in Assam.

However the historical past of Assam’s silk goes additional again than the Ahom period. Be it the information by Huen Sang on the silk commerce in Kamrupa or reference of Assam’s silk in Kautilya’s Arthashastra—all spoke in regards to the manufacturing of solely the most effective type of silk that ever was there.

Assam Silk

Assam being majorly acclaimed for its tea gardens can be famous for its silk. Specifically muga silk, which is indigenous to the area. The heritage of manufacturing silk has been adopted for ages in Assam and has turn out to be a worldwide pattern within the latest instances. Each Muga and Eri silk falls beneath non-mulberry silk group and pat silk falls beneath mulberry silk group.  

Muga silk

This number of silk was reserved just for use by the royal households. Muga silk is a protected geographical indication (GI) to Assam in 2007. Identified for its sturdiness and lustre, muga silk owns the highest place. After each wash (sure, it may be hand-washed) the lustre will increase, due to which it’s principally utilized in merchandise like saris and conventional Assamese mekhala-chador. Muga silk is obtained from Antheraea assamensis worm, and a golden color silk thread is extracted from it, which may be very a lot distinctive due to its consistency, brightness and endurance. These worms stay on som and sualu leaves.

Eri silk

Let’s name it vegan silk—will not be far-fetched for certain. This silk is produced with out inflicting any hurt to the silkworm. The cocoon of Ailanthus silk moth is harvested solely after the moth leaves. Considerably woolly in texture, eri silk has thermal qualities which makes it good for both winter and summer time use. In India, aside from Assam, eri silk is produced in different Indian states like Jharkhand, Andhra Pradesh, Karnataka, and different northeastern states. Very sturdy, mushy texture and moisture absorbent, these qualities make eri silk a most popular alternative for conventional Assamese saris, curtains, mattress covers and even garments for infants! That is one versatile cloth. Eri silk often known as Endi silk is obtained from Philosamia ricini worm, which feeds on castor leaves. White silk is derived which may be very mushy in texture and usually used for the manufacturing of scarfs and blankets.

Pat silk

A product of pat silkworm, this number of silk can be known as mulberry silk because the larvae prefers white mulberry leaves for meals. The silk is available in pure white or off-white, has glorious sturdiness and is understood for its shiny high quality. Fairly Assamese mekhala-chadors are sometimes made with pat silk.Pat silk is obtained from Bombyx textor worm, and a white color silk thread is extracted from it, which is wanted for its brightness and high quality. Together with India, many different international locations additionally breed Bombyx textor worms for pat silk manufacturing. 

Popularly generally known as Assam silk it denotes the three main kinds of indigenous wild silks produced in Assam—Golden Muga, White Paat and heat Eri Silk.

Muga tradition is endemic to erstwhile Assam is the most important producers of Muga silk on the planet. Although Assam produces all of the 4 forms of silk, but main emphases have been given in manufacturing of Muga and Eri Silk that are popularly as Vanya Silk. Assam Contributes 95% and 65% of nation’s complete Muga and Eri manufacturing respectively.

Assam produces uncommon silks which can be accessible available in the market particularly; muga, pat and eri. Muga silk is golden in color, whereas pat and eri silk are white in color. In Assam, many small-scale industries are related to silk as rearing silk doesn’t require massive funding and supplies employment to many individuals because the trade may be very labour intensive. 

Sualkuchi (Assam)

Sualkuchi is situated in the Kamrup district of Assam. It’s thought of as the hub of  sericulture and textile trade. The folks of Sualkuchi had been finest recognized for his or her works resembling pottery, oil processing and so forth. Amongst the first world instances, nonetheless with time the folks have taken up sericulture and weaving as their main occupation and persevering with to do wonders in the identical. This sericulture trade of Sualkuchi is majorly dominated by the ladies of the place as many of the actions are dwelling primarily based. Round 50% of the ladies of the area are occupied with totally different works associated to sericulture. The lads deal with the advertising and marketing and textile manufacturing actions.